ANNALS OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ORADEA FASCICLE OF TEXTILES, LEATHERWORK 69 METHODS OF OBTAINING LONGITUDINAL STRIPES LAYOUTS OANA Dorina1, OANA… [600870]

ANNALS OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ORADEA
FASCICLE OF TEXTILES, LEATHERWORK

69

METHODS OF OBTAINING LONGITUDINAL STRIPES LAYOUTS

OANA Dorina1, OANA Ioan-Pavel2

1 ,2 University of Oradea, Romania, Department of Engine ering and Industrial Management in Textiles and
Leatherwork, Faculty of Energy Engineering and Indu strial Management, Str. B. Șt Delavrancea nr.4, 410087,
Oradea, Bihor, Romania, E-mail: [anonimizat]

Corresponding author: Oana, Ioan-Pavel, E-mail: [anonimizat]

Abstract . From the technological point of view it is necessa ry that the phase of warping to be done two or thre e
multiple warp, which results in two or three rolls of the warp final will meet only the warping. To ac hieve
longitudinal striped fabric spinning machines is ne cessary to have all tensioning mechanism dispensing rolls
which requires their special construction.
The homogeneity of the fabric from the point of vie w of the warp yarns tension must be ensured by sync hronizing
operation of the tensioning two cutting mechanisms of the two reels on which the wires are wound with a degree
of waving and thus the fuel consumption at the diff erent weaving.
It is recommended that the design be adopted averag e float bonds, such that the wires can be wrapped a round
more than two final reels.
In terms of manufacturing technology with longitudi nal stripes fabrics have a more complicated and exp ensive
technology to cross-striped fabrics for the manufac ture of which technology is simplified.
Cross-striped fabrics containing groups of warp thr eads those linked to floating average is materially different.
Due to this degree of crimping of wires in the stri pes with different bonds makes their contract to be different,
having a direct influence on the wires consumption. The different contraction of wire weaving makes warp yarn
length, contained in a linked reports are so differ ent that it requires winding wires with different b onds also
differing on the final rolls.
.
Key words: floating, longitudinal stripes, plain weave, satin, floating, yarns, fabrics

1. INTRODUCTION

Mapping method of thread groups with ties to obtain different average floating fabric with
longitudinal stripes, was one of the most important issues for the designers and creators of fabrics.
Although the concerns of project area, the result was the adoption of empirical solutions have not
taken into account the real state of the internal structure of the fabric with such links. In their vast
majority were limited to solving some particular cases stru cture without universal solutions [1].
The most obvious effect of stripes is obtained by associa ting connections with significantly
different average flotation which alter the internal struc ture of the fabric itself. This aspect of the depth
of the stripe is contained structure which makes it to be well defined and provide a high stability.
Average float bonds differ across striped fabric determines the inhomogeneous nature that can
not be eliminated entirely, but it can be improved. One means by which to bring an improvement in
the homogeneity of the fabric in terms of the degree of filling i s apparently taking densities which
increase average flotation.[2]
Fabrics obtained by combining floating links with different backgrounds , structure, consists of
two parts: an area with yarn in which is used an average floating about as small, usually weave with
floating average F = 1 and an area containing yarn bonds whose aver age flotation F > 1.

70 2.THE CONNECTION OF FABRIC DESIGN CONSTRUCTION WIT H
LONGITUDINAL STRIPES.

The appearance of longitudinal stripes contoured and highlighted t he simple fabric consisting
of a warp and a weft can be obtained only by means of combinati on of groups with links floating yarn
mean differs significantly.
Striped effect achieved by this method produces change of the internal structure of the fabric,
which makes the establishment striped to provide a permanent, that can not be diminished by humido-
thermal processes finish or routine maintenance.

3.CRITERIA FOR ASSIGNING TIES TO EFFECT OF STRIPES

When setting drawings related to longitudinal stripes textile fabrics obtained by associating
groups of threads with ties to pushups different environments must m eet certain criteria which ensure
positional stability of the wires and the appearance of longit udinal stripes [3]:
1. Ties that associates to provide a clear contrast chara cterized by the degree of occurrence of
the woven yarn systems.
2. The number of yarn of a given connection must be at least equal t o the number of warp
yarns in a cell of the shoulder or the number of yarns in a rat io of about.
3. Yarns in a stripe with a certain connection will be woven i nto a whole number of shoulder
cells.
4. Wires in stripes with different ties will be necessari ly separated by tooth comb.

4. CONSTRUCTION OF THE RELATED DESIGNS

The combination of warp threads with different links and widths c an result in a variety of
fabrics with longitudinal stripes layout. [4]
Joining effect regarding the color effect is another meaning by which to obtain a better
highlight of the longitudinal stripes appearance and an almost un limited variety of aspect. In the fig. 1
are some examples of woven fabrics obtained by associating groups of wire ties, different thickness
and width combined with color.

a) b)

c) d)

ANNALS OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ORADEA
FASCICLE OF TEXTILES, LEATHERWORK

71

e)
Fig. 1: Examples of woven fabrics obtained by associating groups of wire ties, different thickness and
width combined with color

To highlight the appearance of striped ties were associate d with significantly different average
flotation.
In all presented cases were adopted the background of woven fabr ics which has the lowest
average float F = 1. Striped configuration is evidenced by the adoption of the other groups of yarn,
connections with higher average float and the warp. [3]
For the connection of Figure 1 was obtained by associating bond c loth of the ATLAS 5/2
Warp effect, the width of the stripes is different due to the number of threads adopted. It can combine
stripes with widths equal to one for both links and unequal stripes on both ties that associate fig. 1 (b,
c, d).

5. CALCULATE THE RATIO OF THE BOND

The report of bond fabrics with longitudinal stripes obtained by ass igning different medium
float ties is calculated as:
– in the woof

Ruini Run
jn
idl∑ ∑
= =

=
1 1 (1)

– in the warp:

( )Ruic mmm c Rbdl . . . . . = (2)

To the connection with longitudinal stripes shown in figure 1 c) t he ratio of the bond is
calculated as:

– in the warp

( ) ( ) 62 30 32521122222 102
1 1 1= + =⋅++++⋅+++ =

= ∑∑ ∑
= =Ruini Run
jn
idl

– in the warp:

( ) () fire c mmm c Ruic mmm c Rbdl 105 , 2. . . . . . . . . = = =

72 6. THE ASSESSMENT OF CONTRAST

The degree of systems development on the yarn fabric, is the contrast element that highlights
streaking effect.
It is measured by the number of the systemic effects of the fabric per unit area is defined as the
minimum number of warp yarns and weft in the report of bond stri ps. [4]
Figure 2. Has been associated with floating weave twill F = 1 D3 / 1 with average flotation
F=2.

Fig. 2: The association cloth bond with the twill D3/1

In a report Ru = Rb = 4/4 from the 16 attachment points 8 are t he with warp effect for weave
and 12 for twill.
In the case of bond fabric association A5 / 2, Figure 7 in a report Ru = Rb = 10/10, 100 of the
attachment points, the weave is 50 and the connection points 80 atl as the warp effect. If the first case
the ratio between the points of bonding the warp effect is 1.5 second is 1.6. [5]
Given that the striped warp yarn density has different values depending on the flotation year
average, it is necessary to calculate the degree of occu rrence of points on the fabric binding the warp
to take account of this. Therefore, the ratio of binding points of t he warp effect is associated with the
ties have to be related to the ratio of the maximum density of the yarns of the two ties.

7. WEAVING YARNS TO WOVEN FABRICS OBTAINED BY
ASSOCIATION LINKS.

7.1 Weaving threads in shedding harnesses
Weaving threads into shedding harnesses shall conform to the follow ing criteria.
a. criterion of the number of shedding harnesses
b. loading criterion of the shedding harnesses
Figure 3 is linked to a compound twill 4/2, 1/1, the average float F = 2 with a plain weave with
a floating average F = 1. Charging the shedding harnesses in a report linking Ru = 8 +24 = 32 wire, 1
wire / SSA twill and 6 threads / wire to weave.

Fig. 3: Assigning a composed twill 4/2, 1/1 with a plain weave

c. the criterion of frequency bond to a report of the weft shedding harnesses
In Figure 4 the effect of longitudinal strips is obtained by the combination of a connection A5
/ 2, with a plain weave. Degree of shedding harnesses loadi ng in the report bond is equal to 1 wire /
yarn.

ANNALS OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ORADEA
FASCICLE OF TEXTILES, LEATHERWORK

73

Fig. 4: Associating a link A5 / 2 with a plain weave

7.2.Weaving backward yarns
Weaving backward yarns for fabric links obtained by fundamental as sociation or combination
thereof shall conform to the following criteria. [1]
a. yarns from a stripe with a certain connection to be woven in a numbe r of shoulder
whole cell.
b. The number of wires from a stripe with a certain connect ion should be equal to the
number of woven yarns in a cell or an integer from cells
c. Adjacent wires between two consecutive bonds will separate binding by tooth
shoulder.
A warping wires backward incorrectly can lead to blurring effec t stripes. An example of a link
with the connection strips obtained from the longitudinal A5 / 2 by negativation, warping shown in
Figure 5.

Fig 5: Connections with longitudinal stripes obtained in the connection A5 / 2 by negativation

Weaving the threads in the cell is the cell 2,4,7,9 stripes ar e woven yarn consecutive different
links. Basically the striped fabric is completely blurred.
d. Number of wires woven into a cell of the shoulder must be st rictly proportional to
their density in stripes with different bonds.
In Figure 6 weaving yarn in the back was done with 4-wire the connection at the twill
compound and 2-wire / connector to the canvas. In this case the ra tio of yarn density is 4/2. Twill yarn
density will be two times greater than that of the weave plain.

Fig. 6: Weaving backward yarn

In Figure 7 the connection associated A5 / 2 with cloth 3 sh all be possible variants of the
warping of backward yarns give different ratios between 3 to stripe s and density of yarns, namely:

74

Fig. 7: Assigning a bond A5 / 2 with a weave plain

1. The density of stripped yarn with a density A5 / 2 is 1.25 times greater than the stripe weave
of the yarns.
2. The report of backward warp threads is 5/2, and hence connecting yarns A5 / 2 have a density
of 2.5 times higher than the weave
3. the ratio backward warp yarn is 5/4.
e. It is recommended that the number of yarn from a stripe of a certain connection to an
integer number of reports.
f. If when for the diversification appearance of stripes can adopt on stripes a certain
connection a number of threads which contains a whole number of re ports in which stripe
with connection A5 / 2 containing 12 wires

8. CONCLUSIONS.

In terms of manufacturing technology with longitudinal stripes fa brics have a more
complicated and expensive technology to cross-striped fabrics for the manufacture of which
technology is simplified.
Cross-striped fabrics containing groups of warp threads those linked to floating average is
materially different. Due to this degree of crimping of wire s in the stripes with different bonds makes
their contract to be different, having a direct influence on the wires consumption. The different
contraction of wire weaving makes warp yarn length, conta ined in a linked reports are so different
that it requires winding wires with different bonds also differ ing on the final rolls.

REFERENCES

[1] I. Cioar ă,”Structura țesăturilor ”, Editura Performantica, Ia și, 2001
[2] D. Oana, „ Proiectarea țesăturilor cu dungi longitudinale ”, Editura Universit ății din
Oradea, 2005
[3]D. Chinciu, D. Oana, „ Proiectarea țesăturilor cu dungi ob ținute prin asocierea de dungi ”,
Ed.Mega Mix, Ia și,2004
[4]D. Chinciu, „ Geometria structurii țesăturilor ”,Aplicații, Editura BIT, Colec ția CARTEX
nr.3, Iași,1996
[5] D. Chinciu, „ Bazele proiectării țesăturilor ”Ediția a II-a, Editura Mega-Mix, Ia și 2003
[6] D. Chinciu, G.C. Chinciu „ Proiectarea țesăturilor ”, vol I, Editura Mega-Mix, Ia și,2003
[7] D. Chinciu, G.C. Chinciu „ Proiectarea țesăturilor ”, vol II, Editura Mega-Mix, Ia și,2003